New York Fashion Week splashes gray city with color by Basma
Fashion Week inject some color into a city drowning in gray slush, waking up the basic-black fashion crowd on notch day Thursday with shades of neon crimson and poppy orange.
Pantone, which sets skilled color standards, reported Thursday that the most request shades for the fall collection living being previewed at New York Fashion Week consist of bamboo, deep teal, an eggplant purple called phlox and the melonlike honeysuckle.
Max Azria’s BCBG collection balanced flashes of yellow and cobalt against fall classics like navy and gray. Jenni Kayne used neon pink, with models in bright pink lipstick.
retailer, editors and stylists got a sample of more than 100 runway collections over eight days in New York, which kicked off the catwalk time of year that will then move on to London, Milan, Italy, and Paris.
Luca Luca inventive director Raul Melgoza brought the deep woods to center stage, previewing looks that mimic nature’s regular gifts.
“This season was inspired by the adventures to be discovered in the deep woods – the beauty, the color, the fantasy,” he told The allied Press.
Of course, Mother Nature is full of contradiction, he added, and that’s where the concurrence of lace and wool, or feminine sheers with tough, barklike fabrics come in. There also were opposing silhouette of slim, pencil skirts versus blown up A-lines, and trousers moved back and forth among skinny and wide-leg.
Melgoza captured the colors of the flavor with rich shades of orange, olive and fuchsia, and a watery white pleated skirt paired with a insubstantial silk-inset blouse was the calm after the big, early-season storm.
The best moments of the show were the quiet, delicate ones – a leaf-print sheath or the silver “birdseed” Cocktail Dress with a black beaded overlay.
With a collection inspired by the glum, dramatic orchid, Christian Siriano showed how much he has blossomed as a designer since his novice days on “Project Runway.”
Sure, there was the giant pouf of a ruffled ball gown as his finale, and a incorrect cocktail dress that seemed an explosion of fabric petals, but most of the outfits showed self-discipline and, in turn, sophistication.
Black was the dominant color, but to keep things interesting, Siriano mixed textures. A cashmere and elephant hide double-lapel coat worn with a slim knit turtleneck and skinny silk trousers was a model of how he mastered the multiple mediums.
The silk draped sheath dress with just a hint of a leather underskirt was intelligible yet fashion-forward, and the zip-front shawl collar jacket could be the workhorse of clothing.
One could not ignore the chunky, towering platform shoes with metal embellishment that Siriano created for Payless. They were a nice contrast to the clothes, but the models had some obscurity walking in them so mall shopper, consider yourselves warned.
Max Azria’s BCBG fall collection did not reveal many versions of the layered look with nary a chunky piece, vintagelike silhouette nor – heaven forbid – whatever thing messy on the runway.
Almost every single outfit, from the notch taupe coatdress with reversible black flap front to a poppy red strapless gown, was build on a whisper-thin white turtleneck.
The silhouette was long and fluid, with some delicate details but nothing frilly. The palette featured the fall classics of navy, wine, gray and chocolate brown, but flashes of yellow and cobalt were used most inefficiently on colorblocked pieces.
Azria shares design duties with his wife, Lubov, often the most effective spokes model for the brand, taking her bow in one of the drop-waist navy numbers.
Vena Cava resurrect the 1990s with a palette of black underscored by thrilling blue for the label’s fall 2011 collection at New York Fashion Week.
Designers Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai included polkadot prints in a dress and flowy palazzo pants, among half a dozen wide trousers on the business district runway.
Models walked with long hair down and heavy, multicolored glitter on all sides of their eyes, many in leather and suede jackets and dais shoes.
“Vena Cava speaks to the young business district hip girl, who has a cool edge,” said Stephanie Solomon, fashion director for Bloomingdale’s.
Crescent-shape cutouts at the stomach stood out on the Cava runway, along with rayon gowns that fit close up top and flowed at the floor. Buhai and Mayock also went with rayon in a fringe jacket and a black cropped jacket with take on pads and fringe.
Tadashi Shoji relied on neutral hues and rich semiprecious stone tones for sinuous silk chiffon Dresses.
The Japanese chic included hand-cut floral organza detailing and showcased one-shoulder, off-the-shoulder and strapless dresses in purple, green and deep navy blues.
Shoji said he found muse in ancient moss gardens of the Far East. The collection had an airy, willowy feel. Some pieces were trimmed with down or had tiered fringe.
“I’ve always loved the simplicity of the design,” said figure skater and reality TV star Johnny Weir, who sat in the front row and wore a long lynx fur coat. “Classic, clean and straightforward, and easy to wear for any woman.”
Jenni Kayne balanced dressy and sporty with a be prominent dose of neon pink and bright gemstone tones in silk skirts and chunky sweaters. Pink popped in a long skirt with a front slit and a sleeveless mini-dress. Short skirts and dresses were made of white lace and a glittery deep mustard material.
“Our challenge is to give the customer something really chic at a great price point,” said the label’s president, Chris Arambul. “This is a collection for women who like to dress up a little bit.”
Models walked the landing strip in bright pink lipstick and dark pointy flats.
More casual, relaxed sportswear included a white cardigan and Henley in thermal knit. Sweaters were in dispassionate colors, some crop or cabled.
About the Author
Basma Hinab is a freelance writer and Theme Park enthusiast from the Pakistan. She writes for about fashion and dressing.,.
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